It’s casual. It’s a bit retro. But most importantly it’s simple (and delicious) Italian food. From the mind hive behind A Tavola, Besser takes on Italian cuisine with a laid-back vibe. The colorful chairs are the kind I sat on through my school years, which is a bit fun and odd at the same time. There are besser blocks, there are enamel plates (which we proceed to buy the following weekend at Southern Hospitality), and the floor is green.

Meatballs are served individually, and they’re tasty little rounds doused in a superb sugo. The waiter is so adamant that we order the pork fingers with yoghurt and cucumber that we give in and order one – we’re not disappointed. Thank you pushy waiter, it was delicious.

The turkey gnocchi gets my vote with a ragu rife with strands of turkey. PS. Ask for their housemade chilli oil – it’s the bomb. I’m keen on the rocket salad with grapes, almonds, zucchini, and farro because there’s loads of texture, loads of flavors, and loads of clean freshness. I’ll be back for the risotto, which is served only at 7pm.

Mum’s birthday sponge cake has a nostalgic honesty, soaked with booze and lathered with a lavish dollop of cream. In the middle is beautifully rich chocolate custard.

I forego alcohol on this Sunday afternoon, but wine drinkers, take note: there’s wine on tap.

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Besser
3 / 355 Crown Street Surry Hills Sydney NSW
Dinner: Mon – Sun 5:30pm to late
Lunch: Thur – Sun 12:00pm to 3:00pm